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Introduction. On the opposite side of Crete from Iraklio, close to the highest peak of the mountain Kofinas (800m) is the small, backwater village of Capetaniana. The village, the sheperds, the goats, the cliffs, the view across the sea towards Africa make this a very pleasant place to stay. The only thing you might hanker after is one or two more trees. An Austrian couple, Louise and Gunnar Schushnigg, live in the village where they have built a hostel and taverna for visiting climbers. Together with their Chech friend, Zbynek Cepela, they have put up a large number of routes on the nearby cliffs and equipped most of them with bolts. A comprehensive guide for the area can be obtained from the hostel. Rock and routes. The rock is limestone of good to excellent quality providing for a wide range of moves. The 40 or so routes that have been put up range between 15 and 60m and have difficulties between IV and VIII. For almost all the routes other than the longer ones leading to the peak of Kofinas only runners are needed. Accommodation. The Schuschnigg hostel provides rooms, shower and a toilet and also has a small place to camp. If you want to buy your own food you will have to go 12km back down the hill to Pethiatha. Getting there. There is a bus from Iraklio to Ayia Theka, from which a taxi can be found for the village of Capetaniana. You could also hire a car from the airport at Iraklio. When to climb. The best months are from March to May and from September to November. In the late afternoons climbing is also possible in the height of the summer. Further information. Louise and Gunnar Schuschnigg, Capetaniana 28, Asimi 70016, Crete. Tel. & fax 0893 41440 |